Dining

Best breakfast:

Didovich

The strawberry Bavarian cream or the chocolate puff? That is the question. There’s always a huge selection of cakes, petites fours, mille-feuille pastries, Sacher cakes and fruit semifreddo desserts to take home with you. The chocolate or zabaglione-filled puffs are irresistible, as are the tempting custard cornets. The cappuccino is excellent.

Where: Didovich Castello 5908, campo Santa Marina, tel: +39 041 5230017

Best aperitivo:

al Prosecco

San Giacomo dall’Orio is a large but quiet square. It’s really nice to sit outside the al Prosecco wine bar where the friendly staff are happy to advise you on which of their excellent wines you should try. They also offer a good range of cheeses and salami, smoked fish, salads and hot crostini (toasted bread with savoury toppings) as well as a sort of Mediterranean sushi which is pretty good.

Where: al Prosecco, Santa Croce 1503, campo San Giacomo dall’Orio, tel: +39 041 5240222

Website: www.alprosecco.com/

Best secret restaurant:

Boccadoro

Heaven. You’ll need a good map to find it, but Boccadoro and its open-air tables in the lovely Campiello Widmann are well worth the effort. You won’t find any cheesy, “Venetianoid” knick-knacks in the spacious, welcoming dining room, where Luciano will be happy to serve you his mouth-watering menu of carefully cooked, first-quality fish. The adjoining square is a useful place to let the kids go for a run-around.

Where: Boccadoro, Cannaregio 5405a, campiello Widmann o dei Biri, tel: +39 041 5211021

Best Caffè:

Marchi Caffè Costarica

This is one place in Venice that’s easy to find. Every morning the aroma of roasting coffee beans permeates the entire neighbourhood. Locals bustle back and forth among the sacks of coffee and other shoppers’ bags.

Where: Marchi Caffè Costarica, Cannaregio 1337, rio terà San Leonardo, tel: +39 041 716371

Gifts

Best souvenir:

Costantini

In Venice there is no end of shops selling small glass objects shaped by blowtorch that are often banal and sometimes kitsch, but Vittorio Costantini is a real maestro: he fashions insects, butterflies, birds, fish and precise replicas of the lagoon’s flora and fauna. His skill and meticulous craftsmanship create tiny masterpieces that are authentic – and easy to pack – souvenirs of Venice.

Where: Costantini Cannaregio 5311, calle del Fumo, tel: +39 041 5222265

Website: www.mostlyglass.com/Artists/costantini/costanti.htm

Best Antiquariato:

Ballarin

Valter is an old-fashioned second-hand dealer at heart. He tracks down and offers for sale almost anything, from period furniture to modern ashtrays, 19th-century leaf chandeliers and 1960s designer lamps. Antiquarians, bibliophiles and experts of all kinds come here to browse and rummage. And if you have a sharp eye, you can pick up some great bargains!

Where: Ballarin Castello 6491, campo Santa Giustina, tel: +39 347 7792492

Best handicrafts:

Museo of Lace

Almost as well-known for its artisans as it is for its canals, Venice offers tourists the fruits of their labours, including masks, jewellery and bead-work, at every corner. The island of Murano is über-famous for its glasswear but, for a more intimate experience of craft in Venice, there’s also the neighbouring island of Burano – known for its charming multi-coloured houses – which has been home to the local lacemaking industry for hundreds of years. Its newly renovated museum, Museo Del Merletto (‘Museum of Lace’) will tell you the when, what, why and who of the ancient trade, and numerous shops will be only too keen to sell you something to take home for mum or grandma, but do check that it really is made locally.
Where: Museo Del Merletto, Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano, open daily, except Tuesdays 10-5pm, admission €5
Website: www.museodelmerletto.it

Views

Best view:

Giudecca

The Giudecca is an island that can be easily reached by vaporetto (waterbus) from Saint Mark’s Square. Off the beaten tourist track, it’s an ideal place for a panoramic stroll where you can stop and try some flavoursome Apulian cuisine at the Figlie delle Stelle restaurant, or enjoy an exclusive aperitif and a stunning view at the Skyline terrace of the Molino Stucky Hilton.

Where: i Figli delle stelle, Giudecca 70/71, tel: +39 041 5230004; Skyline, Giudecca 810, Molino Stucky Hilton, tel: +39 041 2723311

Website: http://www.ifiglidellestelle.it/; www.molinostuckyhilton.it

Campanile

Venetians have been looking down across their city from the top of the <Campanile> – the bell tower of St Mark’s Basilica – for more than 1,000 years. Famous visitors include Emperor Frederick III, who allegedly climbed to the top on horseback, in the days before the elevator was added, and Galileo, who demonstrated his new telescope here in 1609. The 100m tower, which was originally built in the 9th century, collapsed into a mound of rubble in 1902, killing the caretaker’s cat, and had to be rebuilt brick-by-brick on the same spot. Opening hours vary, but the tower usually opens at 9.30am, when the early bird tourist can catch a peaceful view across the rooftops of the city.
Where: Sestiere San Marco, 312, 30124 Venezia

Market

Best market:

Mercato di Rialto

The Rialto market selling fish, fruit and vegetables is open every morning except Sundays. The market is popular with residents thanks to the quality and competitive prices of its produce, but also because it’s a great place to meet, to chat with friends, and to go for drink and a bite to eat at one of the authentic osterie in the area. We recommend the delicatessen Pesceprontopesce (located strategically right next to the fish market) serving tasty fish and vegetable dishes to take away or eat at the counter.

Where: Pronto pesce pronto +39 041 8220298, San Polo 319, Pescheria di Rialto